Tuesday, November 22, 2016

Landing/Taxi Lights & Wing Tip

Landing/Taxi Lights

Before I get into the completion of section 24 lets talk a bit about Landing/Taxi lights and what FAR (Federal Aviation Regulations) is required.  Well a taxi light is never required and per these regulations - "91.205 (c)(4) If the aircraft is operated for hire, one electric landing light." Given I don't plan to operate for hire then I guess I don't need either and I can move on.... Well if you've ever flown at night and had your $10 incandescent cowl mounted landing light burn out before landing then you know landing lights greatly improve the visibility of the runway. Likewise if you've ever been taxing at night and had someone pull off the runway with their landing lights directed at you know that it's blinding bright and down right inconsiderate, so taxi lights are a must for me as well.

The choices are endless and over the last year or so I've looked into and at decided on a number of options, only to change my mind when I see something else.  Here are some of my previous options and reasons why I didn't pick them.

  • Vans Per Plan - To be honest it took about 5 mins to throw this option out.  It's a cheap add on but not LED and apparently doesn't offer much light.  LEDs are a must because as I mentioned before it's not fun to have bulbs burn out during a night flight. I also couldn't figure out if there was a taxi option either... bottom line there are some much better choices.
  • Duckworks Aviation - They make a light that mounts into the leading edge of your wing, and then you can use the factory landing lights as taxi lights.  I initially was going to go with this but then I decided I really didn't want to cut into my wings any more than I had to.  Might not seem like a big deal to seasoned builders but freaks me out!
  • Aveo Ziptips -  These are a really impressive option consisting of complete wingtip replacement.  They have all the bells and whistles: Nav/Landing/Taxi/Recognition and lasers! Okay they don't have lasers but they have everything else.  I decided on these prior to my QB Wings shipping so I had the ability to remove the stock wing tips to save some money.  The problem was I couldn't find the price of these much less where and how I could order them.  I had some emails going back and forth between the CEO of Aveo and she was never really clear on how to get a set.  Went through the usual channels and no one could get me an answer.  I'm huge on customer service and when I can't even throw money at a company for a product I hate to think about having to work through issues later on if there is an issue with the product.  In the end that was the reason I skipped on these.
  • Aerosport Cowl & Baja Squadron Pros - There have been a number of people who did their own modifications and installed insanely bright (4,900 Lumens per light) Baja Squadron Pro off-road lights into their wingtips.  Takes a bit of customization but it can be done with good success.  I wanted to combine these with Aerosports cowl light using a wide angle lens to function as a taxi light.  The end result would of been similar to the movie Poltergeist when the closet opens up....  I still very much like this idea but since I plan on using Rod Bowers RAM air system which already requires a modification to the lower cowl I wasn't 100% sure if these two would play nice to each other. 
Ultimately I decided on AeroLED's Aerosun VX.  It's comparable in price to the other choices and combines taxi and landing lights into your wing tips.  Each of these lights put out 5,000 Lumens so it's one of the brightest options available. The fit and finish look on these are also nice and polished. The downside is you have to modify your wingtips to accommodate a new fitting kit.  If you've already cut your lens then you will need to get new lenses as well.  Since I hadn't done that I only needed to modify the stock wing tips.

I had some time to kill during lunch one day so decided to dive into this modification and see what I had to do.  The instructions are solid giving you some dimensions to measure out, tape off and finally mark the cut lines.  After you done with this you just cut the sections out as your measured, you also rough cut the area on the replacement piece... not sure why you have to do this now but it does help later as your fitting them together.  That all took an hour and had to get back to work but was a lot less painless than I had anticipated.

Stock Tips with replacement piece



Roughed out
Thinking I was going to go out after work and shoehorn these things in I went out and found out that you need to do some substantial sanding to get these to fit in place.  Could be variation in the tips themselves, but I found instead of the 3.5" from the rise in the flange was more like 3.25" as you get back to the corner.  I wasn't worried so much about keeping it straight since I knew I was going to use micro filler for cosmetics and these would be reinforced with a few layers of resin and cloth to help keep it in place.


Looked correct to me.

To connect these I used a resin/milled fiber mix as glue around the entire flange and then cleco'd them back in place.  I ran a bead of this around the inside flange as well and then laid a layer of fabric down.  Using a straight resin mix and cloth I laid up two layers of cloth around the entire inside of the part.  After that I put some peel and ply down... this probably isn't needed if you're really good with fiberglass but I'm not so the peel ply helps me ensure everything is pushed down and also wicks up some of the excess resin I inevitably put down.  After that it's the cure for 24 hours game!



Nothing about working with fiberglass is a fast process.  In addition to that I'm extremely inefficient at the process so makes for a lot of waiting time.  You can get some epoxy hardeners that cure faster but for me I spend a lot of time messing with the stuff so I prefer it remain slow to set up.  In general the process is the same as I used on the empennage pieces but just way more of it.  On the Wing Tips I had used Micro filler to fill in the gaps, did what I thought was a great job of sanding and then rolled on some resin and let that cure.  Used some 1000 grit to smooth it out and then shot with some primer. To be frank about it I was not happy with my results. I could see a lot of imperfections and decided this would be a good time to try high build primer.


High build primer goes on really thick but still shows quite a bit.  After reading the forums and watching some videos I now know what people mean by a repetitive process of sanding and filing.  I went out to an autoparts store and bought some Bondo spreaders and a few block sanders.. 80 & 320 grit.  I then started the process of sanding off most of the primer and working with Micro mix and resin started to coat and fix the wing tip pieces.


Stripped back down
I didn't take many more pictures of my work steps but over all wasn't that happy with the way the finished product turned out, especially when I cut and fit the lens.  The lens weren't as flush as I wanted them to be and I may have been a little too rough on the sanding around the flanges, or the lens are just a bit off.  My solution was to tape out the lenses to protect them and pretend I was icing a cake and get nutty on with it!  Here's are some picture showing the before and then after I shaped it out. 


Final Shaping is on the right

Final Lenses install

Lessons learned through out this process is to be diligent in sanding, cleaning and waiting a good 18 hour or so before repeating the process.  Shape everything with around 60 grit and then use high 150 or so grit to finalize the shape if you're concerned with over sanding.  Once you think you're at a good place you can spray it with some water and check your work looking at the reflections.  If it doesn't look consistent or you see rough spots then add more micro or sand some more.  

Wing Tips

Section 24
Installing the lighting modification above aside I followed the plans with regards to fitting the actual wingtips.  Some builders have used hinges vs the nut plates as a method of attachment. Gives it a sleek look but I'm sticking with the nut plates method.

I found trimming of this piece rather confusing and had to look at a lot of other build logs to get it figured out.  At one point I over trimmed and used some of my new fiberglass skills to recreate another flange.  I also reinforced parts of the inside that I felt were a bit too thin.  Even some of the area's on the backside of the flanges that chipped away during the drilling and countersinking for the nut plates.

On item you should install now if you're going to do it is are wing tip antennas.  These eliminate the need for the 'whisker' type antennas that typically are on top of the horizontal stabilizer.  You can also install one in each tip if you're planning on dual NAV radios.  I have dual Nav radios in my current plane and the only time I use this is for the monthly VOR checks and I may have used them during my instrument training.  As a practical method though I navigate via GPS and don't see a reason for dual radios with the amount of glass I'm putting in this plane. These seem fairly simple and I know some guys have made their own, but that wasn't something I wanted to take on so I bought one of Bob Archers designs.

Bob Archer Wing Tip Antenna
The installation on these is fairly straight forward.  They suggest you move it as far forward as possible while still remaining as flat as possible.  Given the build up with the new Light tip I moved it back just a little bit.  After all was said and done I glassed it into the tip permanently.




With the lenses and antenna worked out the rest of the process consisted of attaching the nut plates and a bracket to keep the trailing edge to shape. I found putting all the nut plates on first and then fitting it to the wing was the best method to determine the bracket placement.  After that it's measuring, drilling, countersinking and riveting it in place.  In the end I went ahead and attached the wings but the heads strip fairly easily, so buy plenty of extra AN507-6R6 (MS24693S26) screws.

Finishing up the wing tip I tried to put a few layups over the bracket rivets and fixed any dings and dents that occurred through out the above process.  I decided my layups over the bracket looked like junk and I pretty much sanded those back off and ended up just skim coating and painting over it.  The rest was a few days of working the final sanding, skim coats and primer to get it looking as best as possible.  Ultimately when the plane gets professionally painted this will be redone anyhow.

The fit of the wingtip seems symmetrical to both sides.  I've read about people having a heavy wing and ending up cutting the back of the tip and adjusting it to accommodate a new angle.  I hope to not have this issue but won't know until flight.  Everything looks to line up so that's a plus!



Pretty Wings

Thursday, November 10, 2016

Finishing Kit Ordered

I'm now to the point in my build that I can go ahead and order the 'Finishing Kit'. This is a bit of a misnomer as you're not actually 'finished' once you're through this kit.  You are however mostly finished with the structural components of the build only leaving the engine, prop, firewall forward, avionics, interior and final assembly to be completed..... So as you can see there's still plenty to 'finish' post 'finishing kit'.

The kit has an 8 week lead time, which isn't bad so I'm less worried about timing this order.  It's not like the QB kits where I ordered them 5-6 months in advance. This kit typically contains things like the engine mounts, doors, tires, brakes and other odds and ins.  There are several suggested upgrades by other builders on things to remove and replace for more robust versions. An example is some people aren't particularly happy with the stock brake calipers and replace with larger Matco ones.  There are also cosmetic considerations,  for example if using a different door handle you won't need the stock one.

My suggestion if you're building is to really take the time and go through what others have done and make a list for your own build.  Another suggestion is to not remove items unless you're 100% sure the replacement is currently available .  I got bit on the fuselage kit and removed some parts while thinking the aftermarket option would be completed when I needed it.  Well it wasn't and it was holding up my progress so I essentially paid double to reorder those parts needed from Vans (You get a bit discount on the items in the kit vs retail).   Here are the changes I made to my finishing kit:


Removed-



  • Main tire 6 PLY RV-10 (U 15x 6.0-6 (x2))
  • Inner Tube Main RV-10 (U 15x6.0-6IT)
  • 6 Ply Tire Main Gear (U 5:00x5-6)
  • Tube for 5:005-6 (U:500X5-6IT)
  • Grove Whl&Brk 6x6.00 (U-00011)
  • Nose Wheel w/bearings (U NW501.25)
  • Axle (U-1009)
  • Lwr intersect fairing (U-1019-L & U-1019-R) 
  • Upr intersect fairing (U-1020-L and U-1020-R)
  • Gas strut for RV-10 (C-1016 Door Strut (x2) 
  • Gas strut bracket (WD-1023-PC (x2)
  • Exterior Canopy handle (C-656 (x2)
  • Safety latch doubler angle (C-1021 (x1)
  • Safety latch hardware (BAG-542 (x1) 
  • Safety latch hardware (BAG-543 (x1)


  • Added-



  • 600N Heavy Door Strut (C-1016HD (x2)
  • Hinge Pin (SSP-090X6') - Will replace top cowl pins for easier removal.
  • Hinge Pin (SSP-120X6')



  • As it stands now these are the parts I will be ordering as replacements.  I left the vendors off to prevent having a bunch of orphaned links in the future but you can search these out if you want and find the parts.
     
    Replacements-



  • 15/600-6PR Retreads (x2)
  • Aero Classic Easy Flate Tubes (x2)
  • 5.00-5 6PR Elite Retreads
  • Aero Classic 5.00-5 Butyl Tube
  • Wheel/Brake assembly (WHLWI600XLT-2 (x2))
  • Rear spacer for wheel/brake WHLARV10SL (x2)
  • Washer for wheel/brake MSCTRA1.5 (x2)
  • Nose wheel (WHLNW511.25)
  • Nose wheel axle (WHLAXLE24)
  • Nose wheel axle spacer (WHLA24PKIT)
  • RV10 Intersection Fairings - RVB-INT10
  • Two Wheel Fairing Bracket Spacers for RV-10 (WFSPCR)
  • RV-10 Low Profile Door Handle Kit - RV10051
  • RV-10 Door Handle Kit, pair (RV10030
  • New door 180 Kit (NEW180)
  • RV-10 SS Angled Door Pins and delrin pin guides (RV10DPG)


  • Monday, November 7, 2016

    Interior Paint

    Previously I was using a 'machine gray' top coat on empennage and baggage areas pieces.  However it became apparent once I received interior color samples that this wasn't going to match my leather and headliner choices.  Knowing I was going to need to paint the visible parts of the baggage area as well as the plastic interior panels I started searching for a paint type.

    I wanted to stay away from a 2-part spray on epoxy type paint.  I'm sure these work great but for small repairs it's a bit cumbersome so I searched for an aerosol spray type.  I settled on an SEM Color Coat product.  The Warm Gray is a fairly close match to the Dove Gray leather and headliner material from AeroSport.  On top of that it's the exact same product I used on my 172 interior project and 2 years later it's held up great.  An additional step I'm doing on this project that I didn't do on the 172 is to spray everything with SEM's low luster clear coat product.  This will help give it an additional finished look and feel without being too shiny.

    Throughout the build there are several times you'll have to paint the interior.  Some paint the entire interior to include the access panels.  I decided to only paint the baggage area and anything that will be visible on completion, so not covered with any side paneling or carpet material.  Only painting these parts saves time, money and complication.  At a later date I'll need to paint the interior panels themselves and any forward cabin area that's not getting covered but that will be a later adventure with the process remaining the same.

    The process for painting is really straight forward.  I used 320 grit paper and roughed up my previously painted parts as well as the unpainted parts.  Cleaned off with some Acetone and then taped out the areas.  As with any paint job a majority of the work goes into the prep work and taping off area's to avoid over-sprayed.  I went ahead and removed the baggage door to paint separately with the tailcone access panel pieces.

    Reusing Vans packing material
    First coat


    Painting process started by using a thick coat of primer on the bare metal parts that were being painted.  Wasn't overly concerned with over-spray onto the previous painted pieces since they were getting repainted anyhow.  Two thick coats did the trick and I let that dry for about 4 hours.  Then I put three coats of top coat on and looked for any areas of concern.  That would be cosmetic items like runs in the paint or missed areas.  You can easily wipe off the paint with some acetone if it doesn't look right and respray that area.  Once I was happy with it I let it dry over night.  The next day I just looked for any areas of concern and not finding any put two coats of the low luster clear coat on it.

    Once the clear coat dries a bit it's safe to take all the paper and taping off and marvel at the beauty of it all.


    Baggage area painted