Wednesday, January 2, 2019

Rigging

Happy New Year! It's cold outside which by default makes it a non-build day.  So I thought I would do a quick update on where I'm at with rigging.  This is something I've worked with on and off since I attached the wings but I wasn't particularly happy with it so decided to start from scratch and follow a process.  Should also note the plans come with a very handy table in Section 5 that state the distances in degrees that your surfaces should move. This is handy to ensure you have enough travel.  Here is the order I did everything in:

  • Elevator - I started by working the elevator rigging so I could lock pitch in neutral for the rest of the rigging.  Problem encountered was that my control stick was hitting the front panel.  It was just barely hitting since I could put a bit of roll in the controls and it would stop just left or right of center.  Either way I needed to put a bit of a bend in the sticks to allow full movement. Now the controls are all free and clear, with the only obstructions being my legs or crotch.  Once the elevator was set I locked it into neutral via some tape and moved on.
  • Flaps - I wanted to ensure my flaps were set correctly even though I previously set them.  Using my digital level I wasn't happy with my angle.  You're looking for a 3 degree reflex on full up position.  This is also when the flaps are even with the bottom of the fuselage.  I think I ended up with about 3.2%.  The difference is so minimal that I doubt it mattered.  Also you'll want to put a bit of upward pressure because in flight the wind will be doing that.  Takes a bit of fiddling but with the VPX you can adjust the stop point rather than tweaking the control arm.
  • Ailerons - The Ailerons should be in line with the flaps.  I double checked they were in the neutral position with the template you get from vans.  They were and in fact they were inline with the flaps and fairly close to the wingtip.  The right one was a bit off, not in neutral position but where the control rod connects on the root.  I remember doing this solo and it was hard to get the template in the wing root and adjust the rod.  The solution was to lock the left aileron with a clamp.  Then the right one, ensuring it still in neutral position and then make adjustments on the rod end.
  • Rudder - For good measure I'll include connecting up the rudder which really only involves making a set of brackets.  You have some choices from 1" - 2.25".  Not knowing what I really wanted I made a bracket out of aluminium with hole spacing to accommodate 1"- 2".  I decided for me who likes to have full rudder authority that 1.75" was the best spacing.  That allows me to have solid rudder control without having to have the seat pulled all the way forward.
I'm sure you could spend a lot of time trying to get everything within a 1/10th of a degree, or exactly aligned.  Anyone who has ever done a preflight on an aircraft will point out there's a bit of play on these surfaces.  The plane will find it's equilibrium, you just want to help as much as you can to ensure your first flight will be straight and level as possible.  You can always go back and tweak things during Phase 1.






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